Centella asiatica (cica, tiger grass) is trending in Korean skincare for sensitive skin. But does the research back the hype? Here’s what studies actually show — and what marketing leaves out.
The active compounds in centella
Centella contains four main active compounds: asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassoside, and madecassic acid. Research focuses on madecassoside for its anti-inflammatory and collagen-supporting properties. But most studies use isolated compounds, not whole plant extracts.
What the research shows
- Reduces inflammation markers in irritated skin (in vitro studies)
- Supports wound healing when applied topically
- May strengthen capillaries, reducing visible redness
- Antioxidant properties help protect against environmental stress
Most cica products contain centella extract, not the isolated active compounds used in studies. The concentration and extraction method determine whether you’re getting meaningful amounts of the beneficial compounds.
Who benefits most
Centella is most promising for skin prone to redness and irritation from environmental stress, not severe barrier damage. If your skin is actively compromised (stinging, peeling, raw), ceramides and gentle moisturizers should come first. Cica is a supporting player, not the main treatment.
What to look for on the label
Look for “madecassoside” or “asiaticoside” specifically, not just “centella asiatica extract.” Korean brands like Dr. Jart+ and Purito formulate with higher concentrations, but verify by checking the ingredient order.